Dodonpachi dai ou jou wikihow
DoDonPachi Dai Ou Jou
|DoDonPachi Dai Ou Jou|
|Katakana||怒 首領 蜂 大 往生|
|Control||8-way joystick, 3 buttons|
|Arcade hardware||CAVE IGS PGM hardware|
DoDonPachi Dai Ou Jou (怒 首領 蜂 大 往生) is a manic shooter developed in 2002 by Cave, the fourth arcade game in the DonPachi series. Released on CAVE IGS PGM Hardware, it is the sequel to DoDonPachi.
DoDonPachi Dai Ou Jou Tamashii
A modified version of the game, known as DoDonPachi Dai Ou Jou Tamashii, was released in 2010 in China and Taiwan on the IGS PGM 2 hardware. DoDonPachi Dai Ou Jou Tamashii features an easy mode, with slower bullets and less dense patterns, as well as an original mode which is closer to the original game. Since DoDonPachi Dai Ou Jou Tamashii runs on different hardware than the original game, it is not possible to swap ROMs between the two.
What happens with these batteries?
It seems as if the small lithium varta batteries are starting to give up the ghost. Normally this would not be a big problem, but these batteries begin to leak acid in the early stages of retirement.
If you have not opened your sealed Doj or checked your battery, it is ESSENTIAL that you do it now! Your battery WILL leak acid, it is only a matter of when, not if.
How can I prevent this?
Replace or remove your stock battery, even if there is no visible sign of acid leaking or crystals forming. Note: You can only remove the battery on a normal (non Black Label) Doj safely. BL boards will suicide without a working battery. Once a new battery is installed, continue to keep an eye on it. I check mine about once a month. These batteries will last about 5 years, but it's better safe than sorry when you are talking about a $ 400 + game. Do NOT keep your Doj PCB's seal intact just because you are a collector, your board WILL die as a result, and repairs will be difficult if not impossible.
My battery is corroded, but my game still works. What now?
There is still time to prevent any further damage. Unfortunately, when the battery has crystals on it, this means the acid has already started to leak onto the board. You need to remove the battery immediately. I recommend desoldering the battery, but if you aren't savvy with a soldering iron, cut off the battery.
After you remove the battery, you need to make sure that any acid left on your PCB is neutralized. This step is important and should be performed as a preventative measure.
I have found that baking soda works best for neutralizing acid. Take a toothbrush, and wipe the area around the battery down with the baking soda. You may see a chemical reaction (foaming) depending on how much acid is on your board. This chemical reaction can leave a salty discharge, which is normal.
After performing this, clean the area thoroughly with a damp paper towel, then dry. Do not power on your PCB until you are certain that it is dry. I usually wait about 12 hours.
My battery is corroded, and my game is no longer working.
This means the acid has already started to corrode the components or traces on your board. The common error screen that is usually associated with this can be seen below.
Remove the battery, and neutralize the acid (seen in the steps above). Then, send your board to someone who might be able to repair it. If the damage is not too severe, there is still hope.
Does the game need the battery to function properly?
For standard non-Black Label DOJ PCBs, the answer is no. The battery only retains the soft dip settings. Without the battery, your game will reset to default settings on each power cycle.
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