When to separate baby robo hamsters chirp
Information on hamster offspring and weaning
From the naked, blind baby to the fully grown hamster
Fine, very high-pitched and low beeping tones give away that the pregnant hamster has had a successful birth. Depending on the species, different numbers (see also: gestation period and birth), completely naked and blind baby hamsters found their way into a new life. As a human being, you actually have no influence whatsoever on the development or upbringing of the young, but enormous consideration must now be given to the suckling hamster mother. The group of little "nuisances" is already causing her a lot of stress. Therefore, some rules of conduct are essential to prepare the little hamster children and their mother a safe path into the future. Because if the babies or young animals were not adequately cared for by the mother, the organs or the animals’s immune system, which is not very stable, may not develop properly. Then the young hamster life is usually over very quickly! Also make sure that it is best not to use a conventional lattice cage for rearing, because even through bars that are less than 10 mm apart, young hamsters have already escaped and, unfortunately, were often starved to death a few meters away from the cage or found frozen by their owners. To prevent such a scenario, a so-called cricetinarium is available or the lower 15-20 cm of the cage is secured with thin plywood panels that are clamped to the grid from the inside.
Hamster pups are typical nestlings. The eternally hungry mouths constantly cry out for maternal food with a very high squeak, even if the mother has only left the nest for a short time. Therefore, of course, the nursing hamster mom still needs one Protein-rich and mineral-rich food and sufficient waterto cover the fluid balance. The curiosity that you feel because you would like to see the boys sometimes, you should curb and wait at least a week, as the mother shows little understanding for such a disorder. Because here mother's love takes precedence over trust in the carer and a bite can be a reminder for this curiosity. However, it makes sense to do a short one a day Nest control to remove any dead young animals. It is best to do this whenever the mother is outside the nest - use e.g. B. a blunt stick or chopsticks to carefully push the nesting material aside. It is also advisable to simply put the stick with you in the hamster home at an early stage, so it always has a familiar smell.
After about 10 daysWhen the little ones start to tumble through the dwelling, it is Time for a thorough cleaning. The best way to do this is to lift the babies, complete with their sleeping area (Carefully remove nesting material that is too moist) out of the dwelling and put them in a transport box with the hamster mom for a long time. In this, a little house should be placed over the sleeping area. If the babies tempt you to pick them up and stroke them one by one, it is advisable to wait some time with this. As soon as the little ones regularly undertake curious forays into their terrain, you can carefully try to get them used to themselves. This works the same way as it does with older hamsters (see also: attitude / the first time).
Although the babies develop very quickly, do not open your eyes until very late, usually only after about 13 to 15 days. In relation to larger mammals such as dogs, this is a very slow development of the organs of vision.
For the mother now begins a very troubled timebecause she constantly has to collect the babies and bring them back to the nest. You are very concerned that something might happen. The baby hamsters, on the other hand, are very curious. You have to explore the whole area, albeit on very shaky legs. They squabble, climb and run around all the time. You can be active day and night without getting tired. You get the impression that the little hamster children can hardly be tired. your Sleep behavior seems shorter and more intense to be, because they quickly recovered, romp and fuss.
Even if they are in Age 10-14 days still drink breast milk, they already nibble on grain feed on their ownwhich is brought by the mother. When the young start to consume solid fodder, this can be given to them, initially by adding plenty of fine seeds (Budgie food), make it easier. Juice or fresh feed and also water the young hamster children are allowed only at the age of 6-8 weeks only then is the little ones' gastrointestinal system fully developed. You can, however, give the little rascals a little wholemeal bread in milk (Pour off milk!) soften and place in a flat bowl in the dwelling, this also makes it easier for them to switch to solid food. The water bottle, which is absolutely necessary for the mother, should either be placed on a level that the little ones cannot yet reach or it is simply attached a little higher to the grid, whereby in principle a grid cage, as already mentioned, not necessarily is ideal housing for rearing.
Note: In the younger animals in particular, it happens that they eat their mother's faeces or their own. This is not a concern, since a hamster stomach is not yet able to get all the nutrients from the food in the first few weeks. Therefore, the feces are then eaten to build up their own intestinal flora.
The Hamster mom needs a little more rest and in this turbulent and exhausting time already reduced after three weeks (in dwarf hamsters approx. after 4-5 weeks) their care. The hamster children can now fight, play and eat to their heart's content. As a result, they learn to stand on their own two feet at an early stage and playfully determine the ranking. If during this time the Milk source gradually dried up, the little hamster children are slowly getting clean and go to the urine corners like their mother. For reasons of hygiene, the corners must be cleaned daily during this time.
If the young animals after the 4th-5th Week of life (Dwarf hamsters after approx. 6-8 weeks) in extra dwellings set and separated by sex it is time that Thoroughly clean the original hamster home and then you need Hamster mom first yours Quiet. The lively offspring can now be given up, because the young animals have already become quite independent in their behavior. A separation / handover would only be optimal after approx. 8-12 weeks. But especially with medium-sized hamsters, there are usually violent quarrels between the siblings earlier, and few of them can keep them in groups for more than 4 weeks.
Dwarf hamsters often get along much longer in a group and, in contrast to their larger relatives, are dependent on the warmth of the nest and care from their mother when they are 4 weeks old. The tiny Roborowski babies in particular should be left with their mother for at least 10-12 weeks! Basically, the longer the young animals can live together peacefully in the family, the better for their development and further life. With about 6 weeks sets the Puberty with the animals, that of course always depends on the species and also the litter size or the general level of development of the young animals. Medium hamsters are usually fertile after approx. 4-6 weeks, dwarf hamsters themselves only after approx. 6-8 weeks and even then most dwarfs still need quite a while (approx with 10-15 weeks) until they develop into fully grown hamsters and also pursue their sexual instinct, if possible. Golden hamsters are a little faster here, here it often happens that the animals start to have offspring again as early as about 4-6 weeks of age, i.e. immediately with the onset of sexual maturity. Your maximum height reach the animals a short time later, with about 8-12 weeks is a medium hamster fully grown, dwarf hamsters have reached their actual size, but they still grow by a few millimeters until the end of their life.
The female hamster is in heat again just a short time after the young have been weaned. Professional breeders take advantage of this opportunity, but as a caring lover breeder you definitely take it into account and allow the female a little more time to recover. Between throws should be a Break at least 6 weeks and a female hamster should never be expected to have more than four litters.
Biogram of physical development in young animals
|1 day||The skin is completely hairless and reddish, the eyes are closed, the limbs are weak and still quite underdeveloped, the movements are uncoordinated and the excrement and urination can only be done after a stomach massage by the mother.|
|2 day||The skin begins to pigment.|
|5th day||The hair starts to grow when solid food is taken up for the first time (this is brought into the nest by the mother), and cleaning movements begin.|
|10th day||The little ones fill and empty their cheek pouches, clean themselves on their own and can dispose of faeces or urine on their own without the help of their mother.|
|13th day||The eyes of the young open.|
|14th day||The young hamsters regularly leave the nest and play with their siblings.|
|21st day||Small hamster babies have become completely independent young hamsters.|
Dwellings made of glass are ideal for the rearing of young hamsters, with a latticed cage there is always the risk that young hamsters escape and then starve or freeze to death.
Expectant and lactating female hamsters have enormous protein and fluid requirements, so sufficient juice feed and animal nutrition are very important.
Young animals often eat their mother's feces as well as their own. This is used to build up the intestinal flora and is no longer worrying.
More hints, tips and tricks for breeding hamsters
Tips & Tricks
If you put a stick with you into the hamster home for later nest inspection at an early stage, it always has a familiar smell.
To facilitate the switch to solid food, you can z. B. Soften whole grain bread in milk and serve in a small bowl.
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